To give the reader some context, the following map shows where we landed and our route through Corsica (click on map to zoom in/out). The first stop was in Saint Florent and now we are headed to Macinaggio where we will overnight.

September 4th, 2022

Today is another beautiful day as we head out early foregoing the deluxe breakfast and driving up what is called the Cap Corse. The road almost immediately turns into a combination of a roller coaster and corkscrew, dipping, diving, climbing, twisting….you get the idea….weak stomachs need not apply !! The rewards are many staggering views and stunning scenery as we roll through the countryside passing little villages each worthy of a stop and walkabout but unfortunately, time is running.

We stop in Nonza (which we saw from the boat yesterday) for a croissant and coffee before jumping back in the car…

 

The drive is a bit of a “run and gun” offense, whenever an opportunity presents itself we stop for a pic and then carry on…the trick is to find the view + a “pull out” together, as turning around and going back is not an option, if we are to make any headway.

This black sand beach is unusual for these parts and is just outside Nonza…

Finally, we head down towards Barcaggio…

The goal is to walk a short section of the Sentier de Douaniers…as usual, the parking is a bit of a struggle but after one circuit of this small village we are safely parked, gear up, and armed with 2 bottles of water head out > it is HOT > 33C

…arriving in Tolera (pic below) we stroll through this hamlet a bit envious of the people swimming in the ocean, have some water… 

… and retrace our steps to Barcaggio

The walk was pleasant and can only whet one’s appetite for more! Back in Barcaggio, it is time for lunch, unfortunately, the recommended eatery is closed today, arrgh! We stop at another spot and have an “assiete de fromage” and a liter bottle of mineral water, the waiter gets snotty when we order one for us both and ask for a 2nd plate…I will deal with this sod on Tripadvisor later! Nevertheless, the cheeses are wonderful (Corsican), and rehydrated we drive on.

An hour later we get to Macianago another port city that has the largest marina on Cap Corse… our hotel is the large building in the pic below…

Our digs for the night are at Marina d’Or Hotel where we are well received. We are happy to have a shower and relax for a bit before heading out for dinner….only a 40-meter walk for a change…. a spirited game of petanque below;

The Restaurant La Vela D’Oro was recommended by the hotel with a warning not to be put off by its location …down a mean-looking laneway. In spite of the charmless location, at first blush it looked expensive, after all, it did specialize in lobster. However, there were more modest items and we went for it. A smiley welcome, followed by what was an excellent meal > Annie had pasta with langoustines and I had the fish menu: fish soup, the waitress “insisted” on Annie having a taste and after advised us on how the various add ons should be mixed into the soup, even offering to bring us more!

For the main I had fish of the day, a ray cooked to perfection in brown butter with capers …clearly a skilled chef in action. A nice white, actually the resto has their own vineyard which is offered as a vin de table and of course dessert!

Interestingly, towards the end of our meal, we noticed our waitress speaking to a young woman employee in English…we asked her what was up with that and she explained that she was a Ukrainian refugee …..resto ownership and staff are commended for this proactive action, slawa ukraini !

A great way to end an excellent day!