Ao Nang …..walk the main drag, hike to Pai Plong Beach & an excursion to Railay Beach

November 10th, 2018

A good night’s rest, a decent breakfast and relatively sunny skies set us up for an easy day in Ao Nang.  The Vipa Tropical Resort is well situated, with a very pleasant setting under the Ao Nang cliffs…

First stop was a cell phone shop, and as Telus our Canadian provider had e-mailed us the necessary, we were able to unlock our phone.  For the princely sum of 530 THB (21 CAD), we purchase a 1-month package with AIS the local provider.

We then hoof it down the main drag to Ao Nang beach passing through……

…..and a jumble of stores, restos etc. all geared to the tourist trade until we hit the ocean side and then follow the promenade with the public beach on one side and hotels etc. on the other…..

The goal is to head for Pai Plong Beach via the Monkey trail ……it is an up & down trail which climbs over a headland.

Hot and humid work but pretty straightforward, and about 20 minutes later the trail spits us out on the 500-meter beach, with its light-coloured sand and surrounded by steep, high cliffs. No facilities other than an exclusive resort > but the “hoi polloi” are permitted to stay, but only on the beach. We wander around a bit, take some pics of the stunning scenery and then head back the way we came…alas no monkeys to be seen

 ….pretty hot and sweaty so time for a rehydration break on the promenade:

After some window shopping, we head back up the hill as we need to stock up on wine for the next leg of our trip. Thailand like Bali is tough on wine drinkers and restaurant prices are quite high with utterly forgettable wine, running more than 40 CAD. As well, our next destination is largely Muslim & they may not even stock wine in a mini-mart. Purchasing liquor in Thailand is allowed between the hours of 11:00 – 14:00  and 17:00  – 24:00. During the down hours, the liquor section is screened off. 

As we are about to leave the store the rain comes hammering down but we wait it out before venturing out and grabbing a quick and tasty lunch. A short stroll to Vipa and it is pool time, the lush landscaping is quite appealing for the gardener in me.

Dinner time rolls around and we head for the Ton Ma Yom Thai Food Restaurant rated #7 in Ao Nang a pleasant 10 minute walk…

and there it is….luckily, we got one of the last tables. Menus are often long so after some deliberation, we settle on a red curry and stir-fried chicken with cashews along with some white wine and a large Chang. The curry is divine and the chicken dish is excellent as well…it seems repetitive to mention, but we have yet to have a poor meal in Thailand !!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

…nice family run resto, simple and super tasty and for this we part with 24 CAD. We then head down to the mosque ……

….where there are numerous stalls selling mostly food and clothing….remembering my travels to Asia some 40 years ago I cannot resist a freshly prepared roti (like a crepe folded over into a square package which can have any number of filing options) I opt for a banana pancake smothered in chocolate syrup (as if I needed it), a nice way to top off the evening.

 

November 11th, 2018

Our last day in Ao Nang and the morning looks promising for our excursion to Rai Lei Beach (Railay) which realistically can only be reached by boat …the following map provides an overview of the area:

We take the first hotel shuttle to Ao Nang Beach, then Longtail (return ticket for both of us is 400 THB (16 CAD). The boats are lined on the beach and you are issued a ticket, when sufficient passengers (usually 8-10) show up…you are directed to a boat ….quite orderly and efficient. 

A bit of a rock & roll ride but within about 10-15 minutes we are deposited on the Phra Nang Beach… being one of the first longtails pays off, as we have this scenic spot almost to ourselves, at least for a short while…

 

 

……and of course, if you get the urge to eat or drink you can always visit the resto boats…

There is an actual Phra Nang Cave which serves as a shrine to Phra Nang (or Mae Nang), a female spirit symbolizing fertility. Part of the cave resembles a vagina (seriously), and some of the hundreds of phallic offerings that now fill it stand several feet tall and over a foot wide. A stalagmite that rises from the floor of another nearby cave, along the path from Railay East, is also deemed a sacred lingum. Local fishermen believe that offering a phallic symbol will result in a hefty catch. Most Thais who visit Railay make it a point to pay their respects to Phra Nang.

This area is also a very popular destination for the rock climbing set and we watched some of them practising their moves…

From Phra Nang Cave Beach there is an easy and scenic trail that leads to Rai Lei East …

Rai Lei East is not a good swimming area as it is surrounded by mangroves…

…..and then onwards to Rai Lei West. It is super hot now probably approaching 40C in the sun and the tourist hordes are everywhere. Time for a break, we enjoy a snack and a beverage…

…before taking a longtail back to town. It is certainly worth it to get here asap in the morning because while gorgeous it does get somewhat overwhelmed with tourists….hate to see it at the height of tourist season.

Back in Ao Nang with just enough time to get some more money (the next hotel takes only cash) and there is only one ATM and then meet up with the hotel shuttle. Time for a siesta, pack and a nice dinner at Mom & Dean’s, another family-run resto …..oh, and with some sublime squid!

Tomorrow another transfer and another island as we are off to Koh Yao Noi in the Andman Sea !!!