Chiang Khong, Thailand to Pakbeng, Laos…the River Adventure begins

November 29th

We are up early  anticipating a big day, a quick breakfast and at 07:30 depart via tuk tuk for the Chiang Khong Thailand Immigration Office…..

…20 minutes later and 150 THB (6 CAD), we are there. Our guide is there with a welcome sign in hand and directed us through the Thai exit formalities and then to the shuttle bus to the Laos border.

There we are met by a 2nd guide (Laos side) who helps us with the visa application process. All a bit tedious and a touch nerve-racking …you never know what can happen at these borders! In any event, visa stamps in  place we join the other travellers and after everyone completes the process, we are off…

…a 30 minute mini bus ride to the Houay Xay pier where our slow boat to Luang Prabang is set to go and around 10:00 we are set to embark…porters grab our gear, we walk down the embankment on to our boat which is posted up against the bank and we are off..

You may  ask what is a slow boat, where is it going etc…..Our original thinking was to fly from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang in Laos, as road transportation is difficult/dangerous. After some sleuthing on the internet it became clear that there was another alternative…a slow boat journey down the Mekong River. The Mekong River is the lifeblood of this nation where long wooden “slow boats” facilitate trade, transportation, and cultural exchange with neighboring China, Thailand, and Cambodia. In the Lao language, Me Khoong means “Mother River,” underscoring the centrality of this waterway in Laotian life. The decision then become simple, sort of…but with whom, how…

There are several slow boat operators that ferry passengers between the Thai-Lao border crossing and the city of Luang Prabang. It takes two days, with an overnight in Pakbeng, Laos. A map of the Mekong slow boat cruise route, from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang or vice versa below:

There are two river boat options: local slow boats and tourist-oriented premium Mekong slow boat cruises.

Apparently, the local slow boats live up to their name: they are really, really slow because they make numerous stops along the river to pick up more passengers. Amenities are also scarce on board, and the seats uncomfortable, if you’re lucky enough to get one. Most importantly, they can’t be booked in advance. In short, the local option looks more authentic and is way cheaper. However, we wanted to enjoy the trip and were willing to pay more to have more space and amenities on board. So after more internet searching we have elected to go with Shompoo Cruises …..so, “let’s see what happens”.

The total distance to be covered by our 46 meter vessel is about 315 kilometers and although it can accommodate 40 guests today we will be only 10 so lots of room to stretch out which makes for a rather luxious ride. Our guide Vong explains, we will be making one stop the first day to visit a hill tribe and two stops the next day, visiting the Pak Au Caves and another village “specializing” in whiskey production & woven handicrafts…

As we head downstream we pass our lodgings in Chiang Khong visible on the Thai side of the river, after about an hour or so the river we will be totally in Laos. When the Mekong floods it also causes a lot of erosion damage and the Thais are working diligently to buttress the riverbanks to better control this….Laos being much poorer does not have the resources so nature takes its course on that side of the river…

The Mekong River at this time of the year is significantly down from the height of the rainy season but still runs quite swiftly with dangerous murky, silty water featuring rapids, small standing waves and many whirlpools…

We stop briefly in a hamlet  called Pak Tha > here the Captain presents documents and concludes passage formalities…..we stay on board as this is just a checkpoint.

There are no major towns en route with hamlets, villages etc. inhabited by hill tribes in the hills above the river and others primarily making their living by fishing, grazing cattle, goats and growing corn/rice as well bananas and other fruit bearing crops along the banks and hillsides of the river…transportation is via slow boats for people as well as products, with speed boats for those in a hurry >>> these carry up to 6 passengers and travel at some 50 kilometers an hour >> the driver’s head is encased in a helmet …seems like a warning sign to me!

 

Lunch is served on board and we have a nice selection of food served buffet style and which is quite tasty…

After lunch pull up against the river bank…..

 

…. we trudge up a sandy hill (Daisy included a British couple have a 15 month old) to visit a Hill tribe (Kamu)  village. Vong provides us with with an overview about the origins of these rural populations, their customs, religion (animism) and some of the challenges they face….

We find the visit “interesting” but not inspiring….these folks are dirt poor, education prospects are limited, medical attention limited and although the Shompoo Company is trying to work with village elders to channel some of the tour revenues as well as donations from tourists to good use, it is not easy. In another village they used to visit funds were given to the teachers for school supplies etc. only to find out the teachers simply absconded with them. Furthermore exposure to us, generically speaking develops a begging attitude >>> as we descended to the boat we were accompanied by a throng of kids softly chanting: money, money, money. So while we understand what Shompoo is trying to do to satisfy both the tourists and help the locals, it isn’t really our cup of tea.

The day which was cloudy and cool at the outset (normal for this time of the year) has now turned beautiful and it is really pleasant just to chill and watch this world go by….

The boat arrives  around  16:30 in Pakbeng …

….and we hustle over to the DP Guesthouse about a 7 minute walk from the boat, carrying just some overnite stuff leaving our big bags on the boat. Our room fronts on the main (only) street, is plain but clean with hot water, a comfortable bed and pleasant owner setting us back 31 CAD. Time some cocktails and dinner at the Sammadee,

….overrun with the owner’s and friends children. We enjoyed the Lao fare with a stir fry which included bamboo thinly sliced with other veggies + buffalo meat (1st red meat of the trip) and some rice whiskey (like sake) and of course Lao beer. When it came time to pay the owner presented the bill with one of the kids half asleep clinging to his back, must say I have never had that happen before…A swiss lady travelling solo joined us and we had a fun conversation about world travel and world trouble. Tomorrow another river day….