Seville …..two days of Cathedrals, Palaces and Tapas !!!!
Categories Spain 2017.....walking, driving, training, buses, Spain 2024, 2017October 17, 2017
Woke up to a nice morning and after breakfast, we were good to go with a solid plan for the day…..the Alcazar was about a 15-minute walk away and the line-up was not bad > 15 minutes later we were in > Annie is still considered young in Spain, she pays 9 Euros and I pay 2 Euros!!
It is one of the most representative monumental compounds in the city, the country and the Mediterranean culture. Its influences held within its walls and gardens began in the Arabic period circa 712 and continued into the late Middle Ages Mudéjar period when it became more established as a palace. Throughout this period elements were added to the palace and the original structure refurbished in keeping with the Islamic art of the time, including features such as arabesques, calligraphy and geometric patterns. However in the 13th century, the Spanish Reconquista was in full swing and the area was soon reclaimed by the Catholic Kings of Spain who claimed the palace as their own. This marked the beginning of a new era for the palace, whereby elements of Gothic, Renaissance and Romanesque design were combined with the original Islamic structure, leading to the unique blend of styles known as Mudéjar.
It is a pretty amazing place and clearly is one of the major sites that should be visited in Europe…..it would be interesting to see it populated with furnishings as one must leave this to their imagination….check out this link: http://scribblerinseville.com/game-of-thrones-season-5-the-water-gardens-of-dorne-aka-the-alcazar-of-seville/ or watch the next season of Game of Thrones and check out the Alcazar. Nevertheless following are a few pics including the room dedicated to Christopher Columbus where he was debriefed…
The gardens which complement the palace are both extensive and very pleasant, obviously autumn is not the best time for gardens, but even so there are sprays of flowers here and there…
After this it was way time for lunch and we found the El Paseje for sit down tapas …stuffed ourselves and with a large beer and wine the bill came to 21 Euros >>> excellent fare at a modest price given we were in the midst of tourist land…..subsequently, we found out it was very well rated on TripAdvisor!!
While we were walking we decided on the spur of the moment to buy tickets for a Flamenco performance…..so home for a brief rest and then back to the Santa Cruz Barrio for a performance at 19:00. Got there with minutes to spare as it ended up being further than we thought. A small venue (60 seats) in a very old building….not allowed to take pics except at the end. Four performers: guitarist, singer and male/female dancers > 1 hour performance (having a R. Steeves guidebook saved us 4 Euro) we found the performers to be good but we felt this type of Flamenco to be an acquired taste > mellow guitar solos, singer’s melodies were distinctly Arabic in tone and the couple dancing were very good, but the male soloist we found to be over the top > it seemed like tap dancing on steroids, one thing for sure you cannot deny the intensity (and they do three performances per night)…..our first experience, so obviously nothing to compare against. A nice evening…
The walk back was way cool, with the monument buildings lit up and the street mood calm even though each bar was overflowing into the streets, it’s kind of neat to see people strolling: couples with kids, strollers, oldies, young lovers > the works….got back to our street and had some drinks and a tapa each next door. A great day all around !!
October 18, 2017
Woke up to a rainy morning and after breakfast with the rain letting up we are good to go. Today we are headed for the Seville Cathedral.
The basilica occupies the site of the great Aljama mosque, built in the late 12th century by the Almohads, the ruling Moorish dynasty, of which the only remaining parts are the Patio de Naranjas, the Puerta del Perdon, and the Giralda (formerly the minaret, and now the bell tower).
The cathedral’s construction lasted over a century, from 1401 to 1506. Legend has it that when the plans were drawn up, church elders stated, “Hagamos una iglesia tan hermosa y tan grandiosa que los que la vieren labrada nos tengan por locos.” (Let us build a church so beautiful and so magnificent that those who see it finished will think we are mad).
I won’t cite the various statistics but it is the largest Gothic church and the 3rd largest church in the world……suffice to say we have never seen such an impressive structure > the scale is such that pictures cannot do it justice and one simply has to take the time to walk around and try to absorb the sheer will, effort and treasury that created this wonder, regardless of ones religious affiliation. There are 80 side chapels many of which could be considered a church in their own right, below a few pics to at least provide the reader with a sense of this spectacle…
With light on and off rain showers we found a place to print some vouchers etc. and then walked a goodly distance to the Espacio Eslava where Steve & Steph had enjoyed a nice meal several years ago……got there and the place was crowded to the gills….
…..so we bellied up to the bar, commandeered some stools and got into the game. This is a no fool around place, the barkeeps operate at top speed >>> what do you want to drink, eat etc. and bang the stuff appears in front of you in minutes…..sort of McDonald’s, but with class and flavour > and we mean flavours: zuchinni charlotta > zucchini-lined vegetable terrine, stewed tender and flavourful pork cheeks, pork sirloin in Roquefort cheese sauce and homemade croquettes (bechamel-filled, breaded and deep-fried) and finally the truly unique “cigar” filled with cuttlefish and algae, accompanied by a cream dipping sauce + 2 beers/2wine >>> 22 Euros…
Happy, happy smiles as we slowly meandered back to the apartment…
Siesta till 20:30 and since we have become tapas addicts, Annie searched for a good spot in Triana and off we went …..arrived at the address, the place was not there, however some nice ladies pointed us in the right direction and sure enough there was the Paloma Blanca, it was 21:00 and the place was wild, it was as if these folks had not eaten or drunk in days. A little intimidating, but we levered ourselves into a spot beside the bar, enjoying the vibe: 4 tapas wine/beer >> 12 Euros.
Back home decided to go whole hog and had pastries (from the local pastry shop) + champagne, well actually a sparkler >>> tough way to end the day…….sleep came rather easily!!