Madrid to Segovia, Spain ….another town steeped in history

 

September 19, 2025 

Another fine day as we packed up and prepared for the drive to Segovia, about 125 kilometres away, or an hour and a half on the road. Departure from the hotel was smooth, and the GPS led us through a series of interconnected highways onto the road to Segovia. We are excited to see this town, as it combines spectacular monuments, a compact old town, and a dramatic setting.

Segovia’s roots stretch back to the Celtiberians, but it was under Roman rule that the city flourished, most famously with the construction of its aqueduct around the 1st century AD. After Rome’s decline, Segovia passed through Visigothic and Moorish hands before being reclaimed in the 11th century during the Christian Reconquista. The Middle Ages saw Segovia rise in prominence, with its wool trade fueling prosperity and the construction of its great Gothic cathedral and fairy-tale Alcázar. Today, Segovia is celebrated for its rich architectural heritage (Roman, medieval, and Renaissance), earning it UNESCO World Heritage status in 1985.

We arrived ahead of our 15:00 check-in, but fortunately, the apartment was ready, which was a welcome surprise. Many Airbnbs & apartment rentals keep to strict check-in rules, so transfers can feel like lost days. This time, though, we lucked out; the location was excellent, and with Clio safely tucked away in underground parking, we were able to do a short walkabout, which whetted our appetite for tomorrow’s activities. With rainclouds threatening, rather than dine in the main square, we sought out a smaller local spot a few minutes from our apartment. True to form, it was the kind of place where everyone knew each other: crowded, noisy, and fun to people-watch. Spying an open spot at the bar, we quickly posted up (we are getting better at this tactic) and enjoyed some nice tapas using the classical “point & choose” ordering method. The skies briefly opened with rain, inviting even more patrons, but by the time we left, the streets had dried. Interestingly, when we returned, we checked the bill because we found it rather inexpensive. Mystery explained, it was one of the few places we have encountered that allows for a “free” tapa” for each drink ordered…ergo the answer became clear.

Adjusting to new lodgings and a new town always takes a little energy, so we turned in early, ready for a full day ahead.

September 20, 2025

Waking up, we looked out our window to see that the balloonists were way ahead of us…

The forecast is for a super day, so with breakfast out of the way, we headed out the door as we have a full agenda today. The Plaza del Azoguejo is a prime spot to see the impressive Aqueduct of Segovia.

Built by the Romans in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it once carried water from the Frío River across nearly 15 kilometres to the city. Composed of more than 160 arches of unmortared granite blocks, the aqueduct stands as a marvel of engineering and endurance, towering up to 28 meters at its highest point. Remarkably preserved, it symbolizes Segovia’s Roman heritage and remains a powerful, elegant centrepiece of the town, which had been in use until the 19th century.

 

We then made our way up the streets of the Casco Antiguo, admiring the buildings, shops and restaurants, many of which specialize in cochinillo asado or suckling pig. The Restaurante Meson de Candido in the picture above is a prime example…

 

….until we reached the Medina del Campo Square and the beautiful San Martín Church overlooking the square, and a glimpse of the imposing spires of the Segovia Cathedral:

 

 

We then reached the Plaza Mayor, a fine plaza in its own right, but what dominates it is the stunning Segovia Cathedral, its golden stone exterior glowing in the morning sun..

 

Inside, we admired the vaulted ceilings, intricate chapels, and the cloisters with their manicured gardens.

 

The Segovia Cathedral, often called “The Lady of Cathedrals” for its elegance, was one of the last Gothic cathedrals built in Europe, begun in the 16th century after the original cathedral was destroyed during a revolt.

Lunch time was calling our name. However, with time running short, we settled for a sandwich from this shop, which happily promotes the source of most of its products with a giant hog mural…

 

We continued up the winding streets, passing the Iglesia de San Andres en route…

 

… until we reached the gate to our final major stop of the day, the Alcázar of Segovia. It has existed since the 12th century and served many roles: a fortress, royal palace, prison, and military academy. Currently, it houses a military museum.  It also looks almost like a fairy-tale castle…if any of you remember the movie Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs (1937), the castle was apparently inspired by the Alcázar. In any event, we loved it, and the views from its ramparts over the surrounding countryside and valleys were superb.

 

 

It was a fitting end to a great day of exploring what is another crown jewel of Spain’s treasure trove of historical towns and cities. Afterwards, we impatiently waited for dinner and our opportunity to sample the cochinillo asado. It was very good but unfortunately not overwhelming. 

 

Segovia turned out to be a great addition to our itinerary, tomorrow we’ll visit another historical town, hopefully our run of good luck will continue !!!