Luz Saint Sauveur …more mountain days
Categories France, France & Spain Road trip 2025....on the road yet againSeptember 9th, 2025
We start the morning with a hearty breakfast and take our time getting organized, as the day outside feels a bit gloaming and subdued with a temperature of 17C. To our surprise, Luz has a small market set up in the center of town. It’s modest compared to the bustling Sarlat market we experienced earlier, but it still offers some interesting stalls and local products.The fellow in the red truck below is super well organized with every imaginable grain, spice, etc., all in jars, small and large > clever:
After that, we head out for a short hike to stretch our legs and feel a little better about everything. Our destination is the ruins of Château Sainte-Marie, perched above Luz-Saint-Sauveur:
Built in the 10th century by the Counts of Bigorre and expanded under the English during the Hundred Years’ War, the castle once served as a strategic lookout over the valley. Today, only fragments of the keep and defensive walls remain, but the site still carries a strong sense of its medieval past. From the ruins, the sweeping views of Luz and the surrounding peaks make the climb rewarding.
The climb is not too strenuous, and the reward is fine views over the valley and town, along with the atmospheric remnants of the medieval castle.
On the way back, we take our time wandering through the town, stopping in to pick up some desserts and also a baguette for tomorrow. As well, I stopped in a few stores trying to find some cycling shoes, because I was hoping to find something that I could use for spin cycling later on in the trip, but I had no luck.
The balance of the day is spent fairly leisurely, and that’s about it for today.
September 10th, 2025
Today is our last day in Luz, and indeed in the Pyrenees, so it feels a bit like a do-or-die day. Looking out the window, conditions look very promising > blue skies with just a few clouds, albeit a bit chilly, 12C. So after a quick breakfast and packing some picnic fixings, we are out the door.
Our destination is a bit past Cauterets, about an hour’s drive away from Luz. This charming town was actually our original choice for a base in the Pyrenees, but accommodations there proved difficult to secure, so Luz became our home instead. The drive itself is scenic, winding through forests and mountain valleys that open up to ever-more impressive views as we climb. Easy peasy, and we are in the parking lot of the Pont d’Espagne, which is the launch site for ascending to Lac de Gaube. Tickets in hand, we are good to go by 10:30.
The plan is to take a télécabine (gondola) and then transfer to a télésiège (chairlift), which will carry us further up the mountain, where we will start the hike
From here, we begin our hike to Lac de Gaube, which is a high-altitude lake with interesting antecedents:
The lake sits at 1,725 meters above sea level in the central French Pyrenees, a glacial lake fed by mountain streams and overlooked by the mighty Vignemale, which rises to 3,298 meters. Its name comes from the Gascon word gauba, meaning “lake.” For centuries, it has inspired poets, painters, and travellers drawn to its pristine waters and dramatic alpine backdrop. Historically, it was a popular destination for 19th-century Romantic travellers, including Victor Hugo, who praised its wild beauty. Today, Lac de Gaube remains a highlight for hikers and nature lovers, offering both serenity and grandeur in equal measure.
The lift ride itself is a treat, offering sweeping views back down the valley and across jagged peaks… although Annie is not enamoured of the telesiege portion, especially as it stops several times, gently swaying in the light breeze. Once we step off, the trail begins a gentle climb through pine and rocky slopes, with the sound of rushing water nearby. As we gain altitude, the scenery opens up and we are treated to relatively clear skies >>> just about perfect hiking conditions, what a difference a day makes:
The walk takes about an hour, and eventually the lake comes into view.
It is every bit as stunning as promised, and we are extremely pleased we got to see the mountains as they should be seen! By the way, the neat thing about hiking in the European mountains is that you do not need to abandon creature comforts. The hostellerie offers food and bar service while taking in the mountain views, lovely…
We find a quiet spot along the lakeshore for our picnic, just sitting and soaking it all in. I decide to head to the other side of the lake to see what there is to see. Meanwhile, Annie posts up on a rock and enjoys a hearty laugh, observing a group of French hikers starting their lunch as a cow approaches ever closer, eventually almost swatting one of the men opening a wine bottle with its swishing tail, haha…
The hike to the other end and back takes about an hour of walking at a good clip. It felt great to let it rip, as well as getting a few nice shots of the beautiful surroundings:
After I got back, we lingered for a bit, but the skies were starting to cloud (as forecast), so we bid adieu to this lovely spot and headed back.
On the way down, we ran into a Polish nun determinedly leading her flock of pilgrims (presumably they had been visiting Lourdes), so I bid them a”dzien dobry”, while continuing:
By the time we got down to the parking lot and onwards to Luz, a light rain began anew … no worries, it had been a perfect farewell to our days in the Pyrenees. It was Annie’s birthday today, but the restaurant we had intended to go to was shuttered when we arrived….hmmm, time for Plan B. BTW, never go to dinner in Europe based on an opening hour as these are merely suggested times. No matter, we quickly found an alternative, Le Mouton Noir, and after a few celebratory glasses of the local wine, the evening ended up being great…as my old friend Tony always told me, Happy Wife, Happy Life !!!
As we head to the Airbnb, we pass the Eglise Saint-André nicely lit up and call it a night…
