Sarlat La Caneda…Saturday Market in Sarlat and a drive out to see the Gouffre de Padirac

September 6, 2025 

We wake up to a beautiful, if slightly cool, morning. After a quick breakfast, we set off on the short 10-

minute walk that takes us into the heart of Sarlat and directly into its famous Saturday market. This is a full-on market with everything from soup to nuts, clothes, leather bags, belts, etc. The market is a feast for the senses. Stalls spill over with local specialties—foie gras, walnut cakes, truffle oils, goat cheeses, wines and an abundance of seasonal produce.

Vendors enthusiastically describe their goods, and it’s clear this is as much a social gathering for locals as it is a highlight for visitors. The medieval backdrop of half-timbered houses and golden stone buildings adds a timeless quality, making it feel as though we’ve stepped into a centuries-old tradition…

 

We ended up purchasing a few food items, the highlight being the rotisserie stand where we acquired a perfectly roasted chicken with golden potatoes (roasted in lard, chicken juices and with loads of garlic and onions, explained the young lady with some enthusiasm). I’m not sure if that was a heart-healthy purchase, but we can assure you it was damned tasty!

Annie also found a lovely straw bag that will no doubt see a lot of use during the rest of the trip…

Laden with our finds, we meandered through the winding lanes, pausing to admire the architecture and watch the ebb and flow of life in the streets of Sarlat, another lovely town:

We then headed back to the Airbnb, packed a to-go lunch, and drove off to Gouffre de Padirac, about a 75-minute drive from Sarlat.  We have visited several caves on our travels, including those in the USA and Portugal, so we figured, why not take a break from chateaux and head underground…

The Gouffre de Padirac is one of France’s most remarkable natural wonders. This vast chasm plunges more than 100 meters into the earth before opening into a labyrinth of underground galleries. First explored in 1889 by speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel, it quickly became famous for its spectacular subterranean river. Today, visitors descend by stairs or lift into the immense sinkhole and then board flat-bottomed boats to glide along the still waters deep underground. The caverns are adorned with dramatic stalactites, stalagmites, and mineral formations. The scale and atmosphere are quite inspiring:

Unfortunately, we misjudged the popularity of this site and had to wait 45 minutes for our time slot: the choice is to head down a series of staircases or wait for the elevator…we walked: 100 metres underground translates to a lot of stairs…

Once below ground, you follow the path and keep dropping further down at your own pace and listen to the “story” on the provided headphones…

Eventually, you reach a landing where you board the boats, which are poled/paddled by the guides who offer a commentary and answer questions during the 20-minute passage …you are not permitted to take photos, hence no pics..

The tour takes roughly 1.5 hours and is well worth the cost (38 euros for us both) and the time it took to get there and back:

This was a very pleasant outing, and the boat ride gave it just the right touch of adventure. On such a warm day, the cool temperatures underground were a welcome relief. The drive back to Sarlat took us through atmospheric countryside, with tidy farms and historic villages dotting the landscape. More than once, we were tempted to stop and wander, but a bit tired and dinner beginning to occupy our thoughts, we carried on. Back at the apartment, a short siesta was in order before heading back into the old town for dinner at Auberge de la Salamandre.

We were just in time to catch one of the last tables, and enjoyed sitting on the terrace (actually tables on the street) watching folks scrambling up and down the lane looking for a dining spot…a very good set dinner with the obligatory bottle of wine, which by the way is priced reasonably!

 

Then, with appetites well satiated and spirits high, it is time to head back for some well-deserved sleep.