Luz Saint Sauveur, France to Alquezar, Spain …out of the rain & into the sun

September 11th, 2025

Today we say goodbye to the Pyrenees and to France.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in the Pyrenees and in the little town of Luz-Saint-Sauveur, even if the weather was less than stellar. Our accommodations were comfortable and well-located, and our hostess was pleasant enough. That said, we did find a few aspects of the Airbnb setup frustrating. Paying extra for towels and bed linens felt somewhat unreasonable, especially when compared to what is standard elsewhere in the world. Additionally, the listing itself was somewhat misleading regarding cleaning of the unit. We were given the choice of “cleaning up” ourselves before departure to avoid an additional charge. However, once the hostess gave us the long and rather overwhelming checklist of what this entailed:

…we quickly realized it was more practical to pay the Euro 35 cleaning fee > something that would have been simpler and more transparent had it just been included in the price to begin with. Still, these are minor gripes, and overall, our time here was memorable and rewarding.

The day dawns reasonably clear but cool as we set off toward the Col du Tourmalet, one of the most storied climbs in the history of the Tour de France. The road narrows and the fog drifts in and out, creating a dramatic, almost ghostly atmosphere…

At one point, we pause to take photos and watch several hardy hikers already making their way up the slopes.

Unfortunately, when we reached the summit of the Col du Tourmalet, we could not get a picture of the Le Géant du Tourmalet (The Giant of Tourmalet), a metal sculpture by Jean-Bernard Métais commemorating Octave Lapize, the first rider to summit the pass during the 1910 Tour de France, as it was totally socked in. After a brief pause (hoping the fog would lift), we begin our own plunge down into the valley, passing a major ski station…

…before again climbing to reach the Col d’Aspin, where we found a lively scene: cyclists celebrating their climb (well deserved), photos, and others preparing themselves for the long descents and/or ascents ahead…

…eventually again descending and reaching the long tunnel linking France and Spain. As is typical in the EU, the crossing is seamless—no border controls, just a smooth transition from one country to the next.

On the Spanish side, the lush, green slopes of France gave way to the drier, more rugged scenery of Spain, with its ochre hillsides and sparse vegetation. Our journey to Alquezar is about 200 kilometres, which doesn’t sound far, but on these winding mountain roads, it is a fairly long and at times testy drive. To break up the drive, we stopped in the historic town of Aínsa, with its beautiful medieval square and stone-built houses. We stretched our legs, took a short walk about, and enjoyed the atmosphere before continuing the final leg of the trip…

By mid-afternoon, we arrived in Alquézar, our base for the next few days, tired but excited to explore this remarkable corner of Spain…

Perched dramatically above the Río Vero canyon, Alquezar takes its name from the Arabic al-Qasr, meaning “the castle,” a reminder of its origins as a Moorish fortress in the 9th century. The castle was built to defend the nearby city of Barbastro, but by the 11th century, it was taken by Christian forces during the Reconquista. The jewel of Alquezar is the Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor, rebuilt in the 16th century on the original Romanesque foundations. Today, Alquezar is celebrated both for its remarkable preservation and for its setting within the Sierra de Guara Natural Park, a region famed for its deep canyons, hiking trails, and ancient rock art.

After a bit of a gong show trying to bring the car to the Casa Aurelia (which is inside the controlled access zone), we connected with the manager, and using French as a common denominator, we got everything sorted with Clio safely parked nearby. It is an apartment unit of good size and very well outfitted …all is good despite being a bit tired. We could not wait for the start of the Spanish dinner hour (20:30 minimum) and were more than happy to load up on some tapas and a bottle of local red in the plaza below the Casa Aurelia (1-minute walk).

 

September 12th, 2025

Our first full day here dawned clear and bright, so after a quick breakfast, we set off for a short exploration of the town. From the first step, it felt like a journey back in time—narrow cobbled streets, arches framing views of the canyon, and balconies dripping with flowers. Almost everywhere, you are teased by atmospheric buildings and views offering vistas both near and far. We wandered slowly, stopping often, as the whole place invites you to linger…it was early, and the tour buses had not yet arrived …just  lovely…and yes, Annie has already picked our dinner restaurant  situated on the terrace…

After our short exploratory walk through the village, we made our way down to the ticket office at the edge of town, where the Pasarelas del Vero trail begins.

 

This path has become one of Alquezar’s signature attractions. The route follows the Río Vero canyon and, for centuries, was used by shepherds and mule trains connecting remote villages. The Pasarelas del Vero, created in recent years, makes it possible for visitors to experience this rugged landscape safely, offering access to dramatic viewpoints once reserved for climbers or canyoners.

At times, the trail threads through shaded groves, with cool air rising from the water…

…while at others it opens up to dramatic vistas of cliffs and caves…

…much of it on metal catwalks suspended against the rock face, giving thrilling perspectives over the turquoise river below…

We found the whole experience delightful—an easy mix of gentle adventure and natural beauty. The only challenge came in the last kilometre, where the path turns upward into a hot (30 °C), exposed slope under the midday sun. It was a bit of a slog (luckily we had brought sufficient water), but reaching the top brought a fine sense of satisfaction and, once again, magnificent views back over the canyon and the medieval rooftops of Alquézar.

A very worthwhile 3-hour outing and one that gave us a fresh appreciation for why this little town has become such a sought-after destination. After a suitable rehydration break and siesta, we impatiently waited for the dinner hour.

We had reserved a terrace table at La Concineta. On arrival, they seated us at a great terrace table, while we sipped wine in the setting sun, sheep grazed below us:

The 3-course dinner with a bottle of good local wine was 54 Euros, and did I mention it was good, NO > it was excellent!!!

Well fed and with the wine having its desired effect, we climbed back to the Casa Aurelia, concluding a fantastic day. As the travel blogs incessantly say about too many places, in the case of Alquezar, it is a hidden gem…