Cotswolds Walk Day 1: Moreton-in-Marsh to Stow-on-Wold

May 16th, 2024  >>> Moreton-in-Marsh to Stow-on-Wold 

We wake up feeling reasonably refreshed, make sure our luggage is tagged and head down the street to find a cafe…our place is not yet open for business and we feel keen to get started. Our luggage transfer has not been paid so we entrust the owner with an envelope of cash and bid her farewell. The lodgings were rather modest but served the purpose.

It is 12 C with an overcast sky with light rain in the forecast for the early afternoon. Coffee and pastries and we are on our way albeit a bit apprehensive, since the last time we did a multi-day walk was seven years ago and time has not stood still. Nevertheless, we have worked hard to get “in shape”, and our gear is good to go, so it is time to get to work…

Today we are walking (7 miles/11 km) across the high wolds following the Monarch’s Way taking in the villages of Longborough, Donnington and Broadwell. On the way there are some moderate hill climbs with views over the Cotswolds countryside to Stow-on-the-Wold, our objective for the day. We have purposely kept our daily walks not to exceed 17 kilometres, as we want to take the time to enjoy the scenery and the villages which we will be passing.

As for navigation, the path is well signposted and we have purchased a 1:25 Ordinance Survey Map, these maps are incredibly detailed with almost every road, path etc. clearly marked. As a bonus, you receive a digital version where you can create your route with a pin (which we have nicknamed, “The Guy”) tracking your progress. When in doubt you check your phone and if The Guy is deviating from the routing then you know you have gaffed…sometimes technology can be brilliant.

The walk to Longborough is mostly through farmers’ fields with quite a few gates, and stiles of different types which must be opened/closed and climbed over as the situation requires. This is important as some fields are sheep or cattle pastures…

We make good progress after about an hour and reach Longborough …

….a quiet village with houses lovingly maintained as for the gardens, the gardeners among you would just love seeing their results.:

As we passed a small shop occupied by elderly walkers having a cup of tea we were serenaded with a chorus of cheery “good mornings”, we responded in kind and as we were feeling strong, pressed ahead. After about another hour we passed through Donnington another pretty village. Nearby is Donnington Mill home of a country brewery which has given its name to a well-loved local ale…we passed on visiting it as imbibing would not be a great idea, if we were to complete our walk. As it is situated on a hill there were some nice views over the Evenlode Valley.

 

Moving on we soon reach Broadwell with a village green overlooked by a collection of well-spaced cottages & the hospitable Fox Inn, part of the ‘Donnington Ales’ group which unfortunately was closed.

At the top end of the village St Paul’s Church, is surrounded by many gravestones including several ‘table tombs’. 

We took advantage of this quiet spot to have a snack (Nature Valley bars chased with water)  and a brief rest before the gradual ascent to Stow-on-the-Wold (“Stow”) part which was along an old Roman road …

 

Stow is a market town with a population of circa 2000 and is the highest of the Cotswold towns standing exposed on 800 feet high Stow Hill at a junction of seven major roads, including the Roman Fosse Way. At the height of the Cotswold wool industry, the town was famous for its huge annual fairs where as many as 20,000 sheep were sold at one time. It was also the site of the last battle of the English Civil War in 1646.

The Market Square testifies to the town’s former importance.  Around the square, the visitor is faced with an elegant array of Cotswold townhouses, many fine antique shops, gifts and craft stores, and art galleries. Fittingly, we are staying at the Sheep on Sheep Street Hotel and yes, it is located on Sheep Street…

The first order of business was to get some late lunch …Lucy’s Tea Room was the right ticket: a pot of tea and rarebit and scones with cream & strawberry jam did much to perk us up.

However, we are a bit apprehensive as a few weeks ago we received an e-mail from the Hotel that they, as well as all the restaurants, pubs etc. in town, would not be serving dinner due to an “event” …very curious. After some investigation we determined that there was a Horse Fair in Stow on that date…not just any horse fair but one which had been occurring in Stow since 1476 on two dates: the first in May and the second in October. It has evolved over the years to the point where a few years ago the fun fair stopped visiting the town and the horse sales involving the farmers and dealers split from the travelling people and moved to Andoversford, leaving Stow with the pleasure of “hosting” the gypsy horse fair, one of the biggest gatherings of its kind in England. The travellers arrive some in traditional horse-drawn vardos > four-wheeled horse-drawn vehicles with most travelling in their caravans (trailers) and camping in a field near the town. Given the reaction of the hospitality trade, they may not be the most welcome visitors. As it turned out when we reached Stow they were leaving although we did some drunken louts running around. We did not see any issues although the police presence was quite visible but polite and restrained.

The Church of St, Edwards was built between the 11th and 15th centuries, its most striking aspect is the pair of ancient yew trees flanking the 17th or 18th Century North Porch…

It was a successful day on all counts as the weather was decent, the villages, views etc, splendid and our bodies held up reasonably although the bottoms of our feet felt a little sore towards the end.

Today’s effort by the numbers: 23,057 steps including touring the village, 6.5 miles (10.5 km), 643 ft total ascent and 307 ft total descent.