Zaragoza to Madrid …. two days in the Spanish Capital

September 17th, 2025

We departed Zaragoza under clear skies and a crisp 14°C, setting out on the 325 km drive towards Madrid. The first part of the trip was a pleasure, smooth roads, light traffic, and wide-open views of the Spanish countryside shifting from rolling hills to plains. Along the way, we were supposed to stop to refuel and pick up a quick sandwich. Spain’s motorways are generally well-served with rest stops, many offering clean facilities and decent cafés. However, during the last hundred kilometres, the options dwindled, and what we did find was far less appealing: tired-looking stations and rather grim offerings. So we gassed up and ate what was left in the cooler.

Driving into Madrid was hectic, but we managed to reach our hotel near the Puerta de Toledo, albeit just barely. Negotiating four lanes of the final roundabout, followed by an unintentional red-light crossing, did not endear us to our fellow drivers as they responded with a chorus of angry honks. 

We had reserved parking in the hotel’s garage, and it soon became clear why the assistant manager himself met us there. The garage was exceptionally tight, and he firmly directed us to park in exactly the right way, which required about 400 careful maneuvers to turn the car around and glide gracefully into the allotted spot, allowing for an easy exit.

We reminded ourselves we were in Madrid, not Toledo, for two nights. Accommodation here is fiercely expensive, and we had selected just a handful of sights to visit. Despite the heat (33 °C) and our fatigue, we set out for the Royal Palace and its neighbour, the Almudena Basilica.

The Royal Palace of Madrid, built in the 18th century for King Philip V, is the largest royal residence in Europe, boasting over 3,000 rooms (though only a fraction are open to the public). Designed in the grand Baroque style, it was intended to rival Versailles in splendour. Today, it serves ceremonial rather than residential purposes, hosting state events and receptions.

Inside, the opulence is remarkable, with glittering chandeliers, gilded stucco, frescoed ceilings, and collections of tapestries, porcelain, etc. It offered us a vivid glimpse into how the Spanish monarchy lived in unrivalled style …I guess the King of the Divided States of America will need to complete a lot of renovations before the White House can resemble this place…

Next door stands the Almudena Basilica, Madrid’s main cathedral.

Though construction began in the 19th century, it was not completed and consecrated until 1993 by Pope John Paul II. This explains its eclectic architecture: a Neo-Gothic interior, a Neo-Classical façade, and hints of modern decoration. The church honours the Virgin of Almudena, Madrid’s patroness, and is also the site of royal weddings, most famously that of King Felipe VI in 2004.

We admired its soaring space and the twin staircases surrounding the altar, but our energy was flagging, so we made our way back. Rehydration was sorely needed, and a local café beckoned, where we downed several pints of beer, chased by delicious salty homemade chips, feeling the better for it. Around us were several cheerful locals and a few priests, likely from the nearby seminary, imbibing and chatting animatedly.

After a short rest at the hotel, we ventured out for dinner, only to find our first-choice restaurant shuttered despite being listed as open. Disappointed, we tried our second choice, which proved underwhelming, but nourishment was achieved, and bed beckoned. The hotel, at least, was excellent, and we enjoyed a sound and restorative sleep.

September 18th, 2025

The next morning was devoted to culture. A smooth bus ride brought us to the Prado Museum for our timed 10:30 entry.

Founded in 1819 as the Royal Museum of Paintings, the Prado today houses one of the world’s greatest collections of European art, spanning the 12th to early 20th centuries. Its core strength is Spanish masters — Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco — but it also boasts Flemish treasures by Rubens and van der Weyden, as well as masterpieces by Titian, Bosch, and Raphael.

The museum is thoughtfully organized, with maps to guide visitors, several cafes and even lounges for quiet reflection before plunging back into the galleries. It is vast, absorbing, and rewarding. The no picture rule was well enforced, and we spent a fair bit of time looking at Goya’s work….one very intriguing piece, “Witches Sabbath” from  his “dark” period when he painted 14 rather grim pieces …the image below is from the internet:

With art well digested, it was time for food. We sauntered along the  Carrera de San Jerónimo towards the Mercado San Miguel, a lovely walk passing a quintet of young people playing some very pleasant classical music to a receptive audience..

Mercado de San Miguel is a historic market hall converted into gourmet food stalls. It was after 12:00 and the place was jam-packed, but we carved out some space at one of the bars, enjoyed a few tasty tapas and beverages, soaking in the lively atmosphere.

While it was fun, we wanted to sit, so we wandered down the street, and Annie shouted (unusually for her): ‘There is the famous Sobrino de Botín”, the oldest restaurant in the world, in operation since 1725 and celebrated for serving delicious Castilian cuisine, especially its world-famous roast suckling pigs with potatoes and Spanish ham on the side. Unsurprisingly, it was fully booked, so we settled on a pleasant restaurant across the street. Not as storied, but comfortable and satisfying.

With our main sightseeing goals met (although we did feel one or two days more would have enhanced our experience here) , we eased back to the hotel for a quiet evening, ready to set out on the next leg of our Spanish road trip.