Alquezar to Zaragoza, Spain …..a few days in the Casco Antiguo

September 14th, 2025

Today we are leaving Alquézar, a town we quite enjoyed, and heading for Zaragoza. Our new destination is about 125 kilometres away and should take us less than two hours to reach. First, though, we need to gather our luggage and navigate what can best be described as narrow laneways to exit the Casco Historico. The photo below shows just how little clearance there is for our trusty Clio — a reminder of how medieval town planning and modern cars don’t always align.

We were supposed to communicate with the managers of the apartment in Zaragoza via WhatsApp, but frustratingly, we couldn’t get a signal. Up to this point, our new product from Telus — a 30-Day Europe Travel Pass (CAD $60 for unlimited calls to Canada and Easy Roam coverage) — had worked flawlessly, with no need for extra SIMs or e-SIMs.

Upon arriving in Zaragoza, however, we faced a new challenge: a major event in the city meant there was no parking anywhere near the apartment. We won’t bore you with all the gritty details, but in the end, it worked out. We managed to get through on a call, and a pleasant English-speaking lady from the management team met us at a street corner. She bravely jumped in the car to guide us through the maze — crossing a tram-lined intersection and inching down a single-lane street where traffic was controlled by a tricky red/green light system. At last, by 14:00, we were parked safely in the garage beneath the building and settling into our apartment.

The good news? It’s a comfortable place in a fantastic location, right on Plaza San Felipe with church bells echoing across the square. The location could not be better as it is a 5-minute walk to the Plaza del Pilar. 

 

September 14th to 17th, 2025

After breakfast in the apartment, we strolled over to the Church of Saint John of the Panetes with its leaning Mudéjar tower, elegant despite the tilt (apparently a problem with the foundation)…

Nearby, there were the remnants of the Roman wall and the statue of Caesar Augustus, a reminder of Zaragoza’s proud beginnings as Caesaraugusta (its prior name)...

We were hoping the Mercado Municipal would have some ready-made food, but it seemed to be largely a local food hub for vendors selling fresh products, albeit very nice-looking products, and had we been staying for a longer period, there was a plethora of wonderful items to purchase… It is a gorgeous sun-filled building inspired by Parisian markets. The market is known for its stone, iron, and glass architecture and is very much in tune with its surroundings.

The Plaza de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, also known as the Plaza de las Catedrales or simply Plaza Pilar. By whichever name you use, be prepared to be impressed; not only is it the only square in Europe with two cathedrals, but it is also the largest pedestrian square in the European Union.

The interior of the Catedral – Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is both massive and almost overwhelming with soaring domes and frescoes painted by Goya. No photos as security was very protective.

In full sun, the copulas are stunning …

 

… and  the view from the Torre del Pilar is not too shabby either:

At the end of the plaza closest to Municipal Mercado is the last major addition: the Fountain of Hispanidad, established in 1991 to commemorate the Fifth Centenary of the Discovery of America, thus completing the transformation of the square in the heart of Zaragoza. The fountain stands out for its unique design that represents the map of Latin America; the upper part simulates the Yucatan Peninsula and Central America, while a waterfall descends into a pond, evoking the shape of South America and Tierra del Fuego, creating a powerful visual image and a symbolic meeting point in Zaragoza.

 

The Cathedral of the Saviour (Catedral del Salvador) or La Seo, whose history is a centuries long evolution on the site of the Roman forum, a Visigoth Church and the Great Mosque O Saragusta Construction began in the 12th century in a Romanesque style, but the cathedral was continuously expanded and altered, incorporating Gothic, Mudejar, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, to become the eclectic architectural masterpiece seen today. 

As in so many of these Cathedrals, the splendour and the inherent history are both hard to overstate and describe, be it with words or images, as one needs to physically visit these sites, hopefully with as few people as possible, to let the magic seep in…a few images below ..

In front of La Seo at the far end of the Plaza Pilar is a monument to Fransico Goya, who we learned through our visit to Zaragoza was Spain’s most important artist of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. 

One street we fell in love with was Calle Alfonso I, the most beautiful street in all of Zaragoza, a high bar, but this street met its star billing…

 

While all these sites were wonderful, one cannot subsist on culture alone, so the tapas scene beckoned from time to time. No excuses, as we were all of 4 minutes away from El Tubo> a maze of narrow laneways where we joined the crowds, sampling local specialties and soaking up the convivial atmosphere of chatter, laughter and wine glasses clinking. Perfect Zaragoza evenings to prep us for our culture vulture days!

 

On our last day, we ventured to the Aljafería Palace, about a 20-minute walk from our apartment, letting us have a glimpse of a more “normal” Zaragoza.

This 11th-century Islamic fortress turned royal residence combined horseshoe arches, intricate plasterwork, and peaceful courtyards that whispered of Moorish Andalusia….

The Aljaferia Palace, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2001, is a fortified palace of Aragonese Mudejar style, built in the second half of the 11th century. It was ordered to be built by Al-Muqtadir, king of the Taifa of Saraqusta, between 1046 and 1081, to be the residence of the Hudi kings, an Arab dynasty that reigned in Zaragoza, among other places, from 1039 to 1110. Throughout its history, the Aljaferia Palace has had different functions and, therefore, several reconstructions. It has served as a Taifal palace, a Mudejar palace, a palace of the Catholic Monarchs, an Inquisition prison, military barracks and seat of the Cortes of Aragon.

There was also a small museum which we took in while there:

 

Back in the old town, we rounded off the day with a visit to Zaragoza’s Roman ruins of the theatre built in the 1st century AD, providing some insight into daily life in Caesaraugusta.

 

A leisurely final stroll, a glass of wine, and a plate of tapas wrapped up our visit to this wonder of a town. We have used a lot of superlatives on our road trip, and we hope they will continue. Tomorrow is the start of another adventure.