Paris to Blois, France (Loire Valley) …. the road trip starts in earnest

August 31, 2025

The morning dawns gray and unpleasant, confirming our decision to skip the trek to Gare de Lyons with our unholy wagon train of luggage and take an Uber instead. Right on time, our driver arrives, and soon we are at TT Transit, Renault’s sale-leaseback arm. Once again, our vehicle for the next two months is a Clio—compact, reliable, and more than capable of being our beast of burden. After a brief orientation, we’re pointed in the right direction and set off.

The drive to Blois is straightforward, albeit with light to heavy rain the whole way, about an hour and a half, and before long, we’re in the town center searching for our hotel, the Beelodge Hotel. This turns out to be the trickiest part of the day. First, we can’t seem to locate the entrance to the reception, which lies hidden down a one-way street. Then, when we attempt to access the underground parking, the intercom goes unanswered, forcing me to back up a one-way ramp. A jolly maneuver, indeed.

In any event, the hotel itself proves to be a French version of a Days Inn (not unexpected)  > adequate but nothing to write home about. Its saving grace is location: right in the heart of Blois, within easy reach of the Old Town. Once settled into the hotel, we looked out to find the rain still coming down. What to do? In the end, we decided, “to hell with it”—on went the weatherproofs, and out we went to see the town anyway. It turned into quite a fun outing, darting from tree to tree for shelter, as Blois is full of greenery. Even in the rain, the old town is gorgeous…

 

Blois has been an important settlement since Roman times, but rose to prominence in the Middle Ages. The Château de Blois was once the residence of several French kings, including Louis XII and François I, and became a center of Renaissance art and politics. The town also played a role during the Wars of Religion, when Catherine de’ Medici and her son Henri III held court here. Today, Blois combines its regal past with a lively atmosphere, making it a gateway to the Loire Valley.

When supper time rolls around, however, we face another challenge. It is Sunday, and as anyone who has travelled in France knows, dining options can be scarce. After some searching, we end up at, of all places, an Armenian restaurant fittingly called the Armenie Restauration. Interestingly, we had a bottle of wine from Yerevan (not bad), a city I visited some 45 years ago. A first for us, and while unexpected, it turns out to be fun to sample something new…

It was not a great day weather-wise, but everything went smoothly, and we had an enjoyable first look at the old town in Blois.

September 1, 2025

Today we are heading out to Château de Chenonceau, about an hour’s drive from Blois. On the way, we stopped on the Ile d’Or for a few pics of Château d’Amboise, another charming château, but not on the schedule for today.

Château de Chenonceau is one of the most iconic castles of the Loire Valley, often called the “Château des Dames” because of the influential women who shaped its history. Built in the early 16th century on the site of a medieval mill, the château famously spans the River Cher with its graceful arches. It was first constructed by Thomas Bohier and his wife, Katherine Briçonnet, then later gifted by King Henry II to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. After Henry’s death, Catherine de’ Medici forced Diane to relinquish it and expanded the château further, making it a hub of Renaissance culture. During World War I, the gallery was converted into a hospital ward, and in World War II the river beneath it marked the line between Nazi-occupied and Free France.

This stunning château, set directly on the River Cher, is an absolute delight to visit. The elegant architecture and manicured gardens make it irresistible—I ended up taking far too many photos, but it’s hard not to. This is a must-see in the Loire Valley. Afterwards, we enjoyed a light lunch on their outdoor terrace.

A couple of shots from the interior, particularly of the kitchen areas and the working garden area with outbuildings…

Back in Blois, we allowed ourselves a well-deserved siesta. Supper meant a return to the old town and a stop at La Scaletta, where we enjoyed a decent pasta meal before strolling back through the gathering darkness.

A very good day indeed and a great start, tomorrow hopefully the weather will cooperate!