Albufeira ….. to Evora, Lisbon and eventually home

December 1, 2024

It was an overcast morning as we packed our bags as our stay in Albufeira and the Algarve was over…Miguel, from the property management firm, Be Cherish arrived promptly at 09:30 to collect the keys and return our deposit. We have only good things to say about this company and Miguel, in particular, was super responsive from the get-go, offering suggestions about what to visit, restaurants etc. He also checked in several times during our stay to ensure we were ok as well as the condo…e.g. we asked for a smoothie maker and the next morning it was there. If we were to return to this area we would certainly consider one of their properties.

Today we are headed to Evora about a 2 1/4 hour drive for a short visit before continuing to Lisbon…

The drive to Evora in the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region, was straightforward following the A-2 autoestrada until branching off on a to a regional highway, we had reserved a room at the Evora Olive Hotel and while we could not check-in to our room, they had no problem in letting us park in the underground parking facility. A modern, rather minimalist hotel but very close to the Old Town where the places we were interested were situated:   

By way of background Evora’s history stretches back over two millennia. Originally settled by the Lusitanians, an ancient Iberian people, the city flourished under Roman rule becaming a prominent Roman town, complete with temples, baths, and aqueducts. Later, during the Moorish occupation, the city’s labyrinthine streets and whitewashed houses took shape, blending Islamic and Iberian influences. In the 12th century, Évora was reclaimed by the Portuguese during the Christian Reconquista. It soon became a favored residence of Portuguese royalty, contributing to its wealth and architectural splendor.

Time was passing quickly as we set off to visit some of the main sites in this town which is very walkable:

Igreja da Graça, built between 1537 and 1546, it is topped by four large mythological figures supporting globes, meant to symbolize the four corners of the Earth and the universal power of King João III. It was “hidden” down a small alley way and quite a beautiful but only open periodically and was not open to the public when we were there…

Adjacent to the Praca 1 Mayo, are two of the main religious monuments: Igreja de São Francisco, a Gothic-Manueline church and monastery built between 1480 and 1510 with a long and sometimes difficult history…

…and the Capela dos Ossos, a somewhat macabre site, the Chapel of Bones is adorned with the skulls and bones of thousands of monks. Its haunting inscription, “We bones that are here, for yours await,” serves as a somber reminder of mortality…folks were taking selfies, not my idea of a fun pic…

After this we felt some sustenance was needed so we opted for a late lunch on the Praca 1 Mayo …

… we had a bit of a hard time getting a table as this was Sunday and the locals were quite happy enjoying their food, wine and friends at the several restaurants open on the square and around the Mercado Municipal. However hunger can make you a little pushy and I secured us a spot at the Sao Luis da Praca…the menu in Portuguese was not obvious so we glanced at the table next to us and noted that 5 of the 8 persons had ordered the same dish, hmm > there seemed to be a pattern here, so we cleverly asked (actually pointed at their dish) for the same > she graciously commended us on a good choice and indeed it was : a very rich and tasty carne d’aguilar com migas de couve flor > slow cooked pork chunks served with a puree of crumbed cauliflower > a classical Altenajo dish. We had hoped to return in the evening but werte informed that on Sundays they are only open for lunch. Suitably fortified we ventured forward into the historic center…passing through the Praça do Giraldo. The vibrant main square of Evora is a hub of activity, surrounded by cafes, shops, and historical buildings …the pastry shop was luring us in was just a bridge too far  >>> lunch was just too copious!

…after a short walk we reached the Templo de Diana, a well-preserved Roman structure and one of Evora’s most iconic landmarks. Built in the 1st century AD, the temple’s Corinthian columns stands as a testament to the city’s Roman heritage. In truth, while interesting to see, it was a little underwhelming as it stands there in splendid but solitary solitude…

Last but not least on our list was the Se de Evora (Evora Cathedral). Dominating the city’s skyline, this massive Gothic cathedral built between the 12th and 13th centuries and blending Romanesque and Gothic styles is the largest medieval church in Portugal. We were running out of gas so we only admired it from the outside…

As we walked back to our hotel we were impressed by this historic and vibrant town with a true medieval vibe. So many interesting monuments contained in a rather small footprint but by no means had we exhausted all that there was to see. On the other hand a good reason to return to this town.

Dinner was at the Tabua do Naldo and while the restaurant was very cozy, the food did quite match our lunch experience…oh well…it was pretty quiet on the streets but a pleasant walk to the hotel. 

 

December 2/3, 2024

Today was the the last day of our trip and after a good nights rest, followed by a breakfast buffet which was more like a feast, we left for the Lisbon Airport. This was about a 1.5 hour drive as we had to return the vehicle by no later than 11:00.

Everything went smoothly until we missed the turnoff to the designated parking garage at the airport (in our defense the signage was not obvious). In any event, the rental agency agency sent a guy to meet us, he made a cursory inspection of the car, we handed him the keys, he returned the initialled contract then he drove off (all a bit bizarre > but this was not a name brand rental company then again nor was the price). We then walked to the arrivals area of the airport (quite close), requested an UBER and were deposited at the MOOV Hotel in the Parque das Nações district of Lisbon about a 10 minute drive from the airport.

If you are wondering why we are going to the airport but not actually flying out, it is because our flight is not till 06:00 so we can’t very well wait at the airport. As such we elected to “overnight” at the hotel. The hotel was fine with keeping our luggage but we could not allow check-in until the late afternoon, not a surprise. Parque das Nações is a redeveloped area on the Tagus River. Green spaces with public art link striking contemporary buildings like the Camões Theatre and the vast Lisbon Oceanarium. Nearby are trendy waterfront restaurants and the glass-roofed Centro Vasco da Gama, with shops and cinemas. Although our hotel is on the fringe of this area it was an easy walk to the Oceanarium visiting which was a part of the plan to while away the day:

 

Opened in 1998 for the World Expo, the Oceanarium ranked as the #1 aquarium in the world 2016/18 but has lost ground as new more impressive facilities have been constructed around the world. Nevertheless, with a 5 million litre saltwater tank it is worth seeing. As one of Europe’s largest aquariums, it showcases marine life from around the globe. Highlights include its massive central tank, which houses an array of species, and thematic exhibits that recreate diverse ocean ecosystems. On a cloudy Monday afternoon there was a steady stream of visitors of all ages and nationalities. This turned out to be a good decision as it was something we would not normally do and was a quite enjoyable way of spending several hours…

A very late lunch at Eat Thai > pretty decent and a break from Portuguese fare, we then headed back to the hotel, grabbed a bottle of wine and some cheese for an inhouse supper and by 20:30 we were asleep….the alarm went off at 02:30 (bestial hour to wake up) and our UBER arrived promptly at 03:00 > not many folks out at that time:

Check-in, security, customs all super easy and we were on our way to Munich > yup, not a direct route to Vancouver, several hour layover in Munich (just enough time to procure some Duty Free), endure more security checks and a further passport screening by order of Canada and we were on our way. We were flying with Lufthansa and it was a surprisingly decent flight as they plied us with food and drink…both of us actually slept a fair bit…

We arrived in Vancouver on schedule at 14:00 0and only 3/4 exhausted….Ella, our daughter had pre-positioned our car at Jetset Parking > a very cool system: lockbox with your car key is opened with a combination and you are on you way in short order. Then a mad dash to the ferry terminal in Horseshoe Bay and we just squeezed on the 16:20 and by 18:30 we got home…it was still December 3rd.

The Algarve is a beautiful area and travelling throughout the region was a real pleasure, especially in the offseason. Given the increases in prices for everything in North America this is a great vale for money destination, which we would highly recommend. Thanks for reading the posts and your comments are appreciated. Merry Christmas to one and all !!!