October 24 -26th
Another gorgeous day as we head down the coast, the goal being to visit Santa Maria di Leuca on the southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula. On the way, we will be passing through a number of small towns geared toward the fishing and tourism industry.
As well, the area around Otranto is known for several caves/grottos, among them being the Zinzulusa Grotto. We arrive at an empty parking lot, the ticket seller tells us not to bother with paying for the parking. Down a series of staircases to the water’s edge where there is a catwalk by the beautiful blue water. You can only visit with a guide and we have the good fortune of going with 2 bikers from the Netherlands. Inside the cathedral-like cave, the shapes of the stalactites and stalagmites are quite otherworldly. It’s fascinating to hear about the bat history and the shrimps that live in one of the pools are without eyes, as there is no light hence no need for eyes.
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We then carry on hugging the coastline and passing many sleepy towns, the seaside is quite nice though we found the Gargano (Vieste area) shoreline a bit nicer…
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Eventually, we reach Santa Maria di Leuca which sits on the southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula where the waters of the Adriatic Sea mingle and merge with those of the Ionian Sea. A popular resort for wealthy Puglians since the early 1900s, villas, restos and beach clubs line the seashore with its sandy beaches ideal for families. Given that we are here at the end of the season it lacks the color and energy that it would in the season but one can imagine why it is such a destination for primarily Italian sun seekers.
The Sanctuary Basilica of Santa Marie de Finibus Terrae (where the land ended for the Romans) was built on the highest point of land and was consecrated by Pope Julius I on 1st August 343 AD. It has long been a place of pilgrimage and is particularly busy around the middle of August each year. The townsite stretches out below…
After this we take a faster route home as it has been a full day…it is nice to sit on the terrace and enjoy some prosecco whilst waiting for the sun to set…in the pic below it looks like a bit of throwback with all the antennas…
Another morning, another sunny day as we head north today to see a few more grottoes. The Sfondata Grotta is usually approached by boat but these are no longer running so we opt to drive out and walk into the site…Geeps takes us to the turn-off but all we can see is a dirt track between farmers’ fields…we drive hither and thither but no road… the hell with it, we take our trusted mini SUV into the fields and after a while come to the end of the track….coincidentally a fellow on a rickety bike appears and “assures” us that we are on the right heading and can walk to the Grotta…not a long hike and we are there without anybody else (no kidding) as we follow a path along the windswept edge of the cliffs to find the Grotta below…it would have been great to have seen them from sea level but that was not an option…
There is another famous Grotta in the vicinity so we head out to Grotta Della Poesia which is a natural pool fed by seawater that funnels in from the open sea through a series of fissures. The parking lot is a short distance from the Grotta which is part of the archeological site of Roca Vecchia making it simple to visit. Apparently, in summer it is overrun with folks many of whom swim in the “pool”. However, at this time of the year, there were only several parties of visitors creating a very enjoyable experience.
On our last day, we headed out to the far end of town to gain a different perspective…
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…and in the afternoon visited several sites in the Centro Historico:
The Castle of Otranto is not a particularly inspired piece of architecture but its history is interesting. The castle was built a few years after a terrible massacre in 1480. At that time Otranto was a flourishing city with more than 20,000 inhabitants, but they were invaded by an Ottoman fleet and according to some historians 12,000 people were killed and 5,000 enslaved. As well 800 men who refused to convert to Islam were beheaded.
Not surprisingly the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata has a long and complex history which I will not delve into save that it was built on the remains of a Messapian village, a Roman Domus, and an early Christian Temple being founded in 1068 by a Norman bishop.
Of interest was the mosaic floor that arranges images along the development of the Tree of Life, retracing the human experience from original sin to salvation > it took over 2 years for a team of artists to complete this work…
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….lastly a few pictures in the Centro Historico:
Tomorrow we head to Calabria, so a whole new adventure awaits …
Love that picture of Mom on the rocks. Very pretty coastline.
I thought it was one of the better ones…