CIENFUEGOS SOME HISTORY…………..
Cienfuegos, is a city on the southern coast of Cuba. It is located about 250 km from Havana and 85 kilometers from Trinidad with a population of 150,000. The city was built on a peninsula on the Bahia de Cienfuegos, and has been dubbed La Perla del Sur (South). It was originally inhabited by the French who arrived in 1803 with 40 families from Bordeaux and Louisiana. In 1819, the Spanish arrived and founded the town which would become an important industrial area after the Cuban Revolution. Sugar refineries, flour mills, cement factories and a naval base transformed Cienfuegos into an important economic hub for Cuba.
Before 2003 Cienfuegos had a reputation for teenage prostitutes. Girls would skip school to go to the airport three times a week for the flights from Canada and meet Canadian men. Beginning in 2003 the police cracked down on prostitution and now Cienfuegos has a reputation for the most vigorous anti-prostitution police patrolling in Cuba (and there are no longer flights from Canada).
OUR CIENFUEGOS EXPERIENCES
March 25
Today we depart for Cienfuegos….early breakfast 7:20, as we need to get to the Transtour bustop (by the Iberostar hotel) a 20 minute walk from the Casa. Another beautiful day, hugs from the Casa owner and we arrive in good order:
…there is a fair-sized group of travellers waiting (most carrying on to Habanna). The lady who sold us the tickets is there to ensure everything goes smoothly and wishes us a good balance of the trip.
We leave on schedule in a comfortable bus (all the Viazul and Transtour buses originate from China > Yutong). The a/c is at a decent temperature > nice ride through dry, tough countryside with the ocean quite close to the road for about an hour before the road turns inland before descending to Cienfuegos. The beaches are mostly volcanic with occasional small sandy bays….not much enroute save for a few hamlets, a shrimp farm and cattle grazing …….with many vultures soaring overhead.
We arrive in less than 2 hours and are dropped off at the La Union Hotel, leaving us a short walk to the Casa Luminiscos (our balcony > 2nd floor, pic below)….this is a true homestay > no private entrance and not much on looks but nice people with good English.
The Casa overlooks the Plaza Jose Marti ….the central square in Cienfuegos, named for Jose Marti, “the Apostle of Independence”, through his writings and political activity, he became a symbol for Cuba’s bid for independence against Spain in the 19th century, and a national hero.
The Plaza also includes a number of attractive buildings which surround the square Catedral de Purisima Concepcion dating back to 1859, the Provincial Government Building with its distinctive copula and the Terry Tomas Theater, dedicated to a Venezuelan industrialist and patron of the arts of the late 1800’s, and, still offering fine arts performances.
After a brief walkabout to get our bearings we hit the local ATM, as we have run out of Canadian cash >>> after the dire warnings about the limited available through Cuban ATM’s, it spits out our CUC’s with no problems.
Next up the infernal internet > we are told to go to the top of the La Union Hotel …..but alas we are stymied ….although the views of the city are neat:
The last picture is of the Jaraqua Power Plant (a nuclear plant across the bay) which was started in 1983 with Soviet help and never finished as the Soviet Union collapsed and there were no funds available to finish the project > the intent was to decrease Cuba’s dependence on foreign oil….some interesting insights on the following blog:http://www.thebohemianblog.com/2014/08/cuba-abandoned-unfinished-soviet-nuclear-power-station.html
In the lobby Annie couldn’t resist checking out the bookstore….no, we did not buy anything:
…..in any event , it was time for lunch (very mediocre) > our fault, as we had a bad vibe about the place as soon as we walked in….live and never learn !!!! …….then back to the Casa for a siesta….it is hot!!
After a short rest, we are revitalized and headed down the Boulevard Cienfuegos, a pedestrian only street and a major commercial zone:
……eventually this street intersects with the Paseo de la Prado (main artery of the city) and leads us to Las Mampadores, a restaurant recommended by the Casa owner as a low-cost, but good place frequented by tourists and locals >>> a pleasant place where we enjoyed a very pleasant dinner with good service at a truly modest price….
All in all a good day and we decide to stop in the Plaza ….just chillin’ as darkness settles….
The second pic is a mini replica of the Arc de Triomphe and a nod to the French historical antecedents of this city and support for the revolution……a long day and it is time to pack it in!!
March 26
Another gorgeous day …..after breakfast coffee, juice, fruits and bread we set off to get tickets on the Viazul bus, unfortunately the Transtour company does not offer service to Veradero and few collectivo taxis go there…at the station we are told the morning run is fully booked and we will have to wait for the 15:40 > BUMMER……..just what we love, getting to an unknown destination in the evening…..so be it.
We carry on with our plan for the day, namely a walk along the Malecon which runs out to Punta Gorda , at the end of a point on the Baiha Cienfuegos.
The walk itself is pleasant passing through a residential neighborhood with many casas available for rent. Lots of folks strolling as were these young people who ensured that their music accompanied them every step of the way…
Towards the end there are many palacios, many in quite good shape:
….the most interesting or bizarre (depending on your viewpoint) is the Palacio de Valle. Built in 1917 by Acisclo del Valle Blanco, a Spaniard from Asturias, the structure resembles an outrageously ornate Moroccan casbah. Apparently, it’s Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque and Italianate influences combined with the Mudejar style were in vogue in Spain in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is assumed that craftsmen were involved in this work with experts of different nationalities for each specialty. Batista planned to convert this colorful riot of tiles, turrets and stucco into a casino, but today it’s an (aspiring) upscale restaurant with a terrace bar…..
from the rooftop we got some nice views of the point and views back towards Cienfuegos.
There was also a bar on the waterfront (visible from the last pic above) with picnic tables so we decided on a rehydration stop…mostly a locals area and we watched families enjoying their Sunday, while sipping a few El Presidentes and eating fried snacks:
Fortified we decided to complete the walk to the Point where there is park with a bar and a resto….the area has that used up feel which we so dislike >>> the potential here is huge but clearly they do not have the bucks to make it happen > some pics:
…then back the way we came (no we did not accept offers of taxis, horse carts, bike carts etc…..preferring to walk in the hot sun !!)
…finally stopping for a very late lunch at the same place as for dinner yesterday…..nice light meal Caesar salad for Annie and soup and Tuna salad for me with beer and wine.
On the way back we toured the waterfront > not much there….
….checked out the souvenir stands and “art’ galleries on the road leading to the Jose Marti Plaza
….before stopping at one of the bars for some well deserved beverages:
Back at the Casa we chatted a bit with the Casa owner Marilu. In this case the family had owned several blocks around the Plaza and were in the business of manufacturing neon lights for commercial applications……post revolution they were left with the apartment + garage, everything else being confiscated. Marilu was highly educated with degrees in Applied Mathematics as was her husband but unfortunately in Cuba this does not translate to worldly goods…..one can imagine the lifestyle they could have had in the Western World. Her daughter just received her Masters in brainiac math and was going to Chile to study for an advanced oceanagraphic degree !! I tried to make a pitch for Canada >>>> THESE ARE THE TYPE OF IMMIGRANTS WE NEED !! At this point Marilu teared up as she realizes that once her daughter leaves, it is likely she will never see her again.
No supper tonite ….we have had a full day and are bushed!!!