Nice morning …..our adventure begins at 8:30 as we depart with Made our “driver for the day” to visit various temples and palaces within a reasonable driving radius of Ubud. First stop en route are the Rice Terraces near the village of Teggagalong…..after paying our entry fee (basically a tax grab by the community), we stop, take a few pics and drive on. As it turns out we will actually see nicer ones later in the day.
We slowly leave behind the lowlands as we climb towards Kintamani where we will be able to get a look at the Mt. Batur Volcano (1717 m high) as well as Lake Batur. The initial drive from Ubud is virtually one continuous strip of shops …..with the change of altitude farming switches from rice to tangerine groves, coffee plantations and vegetables such as potatoes, cabbage, onions, carrots etc. as the temperature is cooler (a relative term) allowing for better growing conditions. Kintanami is oriented to the tourist and trekking trade with the usual restos, souvenir hawkers etc. We have decided to defer our plan to hike up the volcano until later in the trip when feet and other minor ailments will hopefully disappear and we can be our regular out of shape selves. Being on site and looking at what will need to be accomplished we see it is going to be a slog …….so no point making it overly painful.
Below a pic of Lake Batur:
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The next stop is the Pura Kehen (Kehen Temple) built in the 11th century and located near the town of Bangli, it is the largest temple in east Bali attracting relatively few visitors, as this is considered a “lesser” temple i.e. not on the must see list.
It is set nicely on a hillside and is a downsized version of the Pura Besakih “the mother temple”. Although it is rated as a “must see” we decided to take a pass, as we have been told that between the hawkers, “guides” and others trying to separate you from your money, it is a bummer. We have no problem with entry and parking charges but undue harassment makes not for a pleasant experience.
When visiting temples there are certain protocols one being to wear a sarong and sash when you enter the temple grounds, among other ground rules. As part of the entry fee we each “rent” a sarong…….and the attendants “dress”us, ensuring that the sarong is tied correctly. Suitably attired we mount the 38 steps to the courtyard which features 8 terraces with 43 shrines (no we did not count them) for the Hindu trinity: Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with a wonderful setting under a massive banyan tree…..
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Made next drives us to the town of Penglipuron which is a “traditional” village meaning the architecture and the way of life is preserved and the 743 inhabitants continue their daily agro oriented activities. Of course, it is also tourist oriented, as virtually each house/compound is selling something:
Annie purchases the evil-looking green drink (betel leaf extract + chunks of coconut)…apparently good for the system….hmm but it allowed us to visit the compound:
It is a quid pro quo, as you get to go in and take a tour right down to checking out their kitchen…all you chefs out there propane cookers are the way to go!!
Prized fighting cocks are in the baskets and turmeric is drying in the shed:
As we wandered around the town site a group of students approached the writer requesting an interview (I guess I looked suitably senatorial….haha). Their teacher gave them an assignment to conduct an interview in English and film it…..another fun experience, I do love to expound!!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Back in the car we are off to visit Tirta Empul (Palace of the Water of the Ganges) > it was built in 1948 by the water-loving Rajah of Amlapurra………
……..it is a multi level aquatic fantasy with 2 swimming pools and whimsical water features filled with koi and lotus blossoms.
This was a fun visit with a procession, bathers and ceremonies:
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Next up is Gunung Kawi located about 18 kms north-east of Ubud and dating back to the 11th century. It consists of 10 shrines, 8 meters high cut into a sheer rock face. The monument sits at the bottom of the lush Pakersian Valley, itself bisected by a river and requiring a descent of some 270 steps or roughly 20 storeys, albeit with a few level areas which provide for some intense views of terraced rice fields:
……..as you reach the bottom of the valley, there is an urn with “holy water” and a switch with which to sprinkle the ‘holy water” on your head and cleanse oneself before entering:
After reaching the river you cross a small bridge and voila you are there:
Oh yeah…..you need to come back up…..we were sweating on the way down but now it feels like we are just melting….needed to top up the radiators half way up…..
>>>>> but it was well worth it. We think it was the most interesting site so far !!!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The last stop of the day is the Goa Gajah or more commonly known as the Elephant Cave. It dates back to the 9th century and consists of rock wall carvings, fountains and bathing pools:
………It has been a great day with a lot of ground covered but we are sweaty, tired and hungry…..Made drops us at the hotel and we head of for a well deserved swim and shower. We hem and haw about going out but in the end decide to go to the well Tripadvisor rated Laba Laba Warung, about a 12 minute walk.
…….another great meal and under threatening skies we stroll back ….unfortunately, instead of strolling we should have marched in quick order…..200 meters from the Tebesaya Cottage our luck runs and the heavens open up with a torrential downpour. We huddle under the eave of an electric parts shop and the owner even offers us stools to wait out the rain….but there seems to be no end, so with a friendly wave and a stiff upper lip, we set off, by the time we get to the bridge the water is half way to our knees. As we get our key they offer us an umbrella, which we gently decline, as we are far past the point of umbrellas….a dram of duty-free scotch and the day is done….sorry no pics of this performance.