The day breaks sunny and as we open our drapes we are greeted with a view of Mt. Agung;
Having elected not to rent a scooter (roads or rather tracks are filled with bemos (mini pick-ups with cargo deck converted to 2 benches) and scooters, we march off towards the Yellow Bridge which linked Nusa Lembognan with Nusa Ceningan…..i.e. until a week ago when a procession crossing the bridge took it down, resulting in several deaths from the local village.
Travelling in the slow lane has its benefits as you get to see a fair bit more than when travelling at speed……some of the sights along route:
After about an hour trudge, we arrived at the Yellow non Bridge, we are told it will take at least a year for reconstruction to be completed You are now forced to use an improvised ferry system.
This also an area where seaweed is farmed ……it contains carrageenans which are ultimately processed and used as a gelling or thickening agent for a vast range of consumer products…think toothpaste, fire fighting foam, diet coke…..first used by the Chinese around 600B.C. Sea farmers go out and harvest the seaweed at low tide in an area stretching from the reef inwards:
It was also time for a break, the sun is merciless and you can literally melt….so water intake is critical !!
It was also time to purchase headgear…..so another opportunity to practise haggling, I gallantly fought it out with an elderly saleswoman eventually demanding “local” and not “Chinese” pricing, so in the end I guess I only overpaid by 20/30%!! Hats to be modelled when we bring ourselves to photograph ourselves with them on.
Strengthened by our intake of sweet tea flavored with chunks of ginger we set of again deciding to complete the loop back to our lodgings. As we entered the next village there was tremendous commotion with the main (only) road blocked by a procession set to the accompaniment of cymbals and drums……it was in fact the cremation procession for those who died in the collapse of the Yellow Bridge. It seemed that almost everyone in the surrounding area was there to view the proceedings:
Seemingly everyone has a scooter and it is perfectly normal to see 3 sometimes 4 persons aboard from toddlers to ancients….as for the legal age for driving I think this is rather flexible as we have seen what seem to be 10 year olds speeding by.
The palanquin in the photos below was carried by about 25 stout lads, with the village elder precariously balanced on top. The palanquin would surge down the road turning this way and that way, then reversing direction and returning, stopping occasionally to shake and shudder > at one point one of the elders almost fell off (to the intense amusement of the gathered crowd) and a younger person climbed on top and held onto him !! We were told that the back and forth surging as well as rope being held and pulled by those in the procession symbolizes the battle with the spirits to ensure that the deceased successfully enter the nether world.
In any event, we walked on and eventually saw the site where in a few hours the cremation would take place (later that afternoon when we went by bemo to our dinner spot, we passed the site where now the fires were still smoldering).
This is also an island overcome with construction…seemingly everyone is or wants to build villas, both local and foreigner alike…..hmmm, an intriguing idea …will probably chat a bit about this ???? ….and you guys thought our Florida condo was far away…..
Back at Bukit Taman just enough time to shower/rest before leaving for the Sandy Bay Beach Club where we would loll on loungers waiting for dinner at 17:30 > sunset hour > pretty good deal pick up/drop off, loungers and towels use of pool, all for a few brewskies and dinner! Not our usual way but not a bad way to while away an afternoon.
The location was spectacular with giant waves smashing the headlands on each side of the bay.
Our owner Ketut had arranged this and as bonus we were seated at the very edge of the infinity overlooking the crashing waves ….YESS !!!.
Meal was good though not exceptional and we splurged on a 1/2 litre of wine….which is obscenely expensive in Bali…….then a fun ride back dropping of the other drop in guests at various hotels and finally home. The last couple (two young quite attractive women) who were being dropped off at a “ritzy” resort in response to the jealous comment of “you guys are lucky” retorted ,” oh yes, but it is our first wedding anniversary”, the rest of the folks in the bemo were silent for a moment …before the comedian broke everyone up with perfect timing, saying, “just kidding”.
Good night….and sorry for the long post but it was a busy and eventful day.