Cudilliero to Coroa …..from the coast to the Picos de Europa
Categories France and Spain 2015........a roadtrip with a boat cruiseSeptember 25th
Woke up to a coolish grey morning and without any further ado (i.e no breakfast) got the car which was parked in the port and set off…
….after about 1.5 hours of quick driving on the autopiste we stopped in Luanca on the coast, which is a good-looking fishing village (actually nicer than Cudierllo which we felt was overrated and expensive).
Had coffee in a bar at the Fishermen’s Port (definetley a locals spot but friendly) and took a few snaps of this is still aworking fishing port:
…….then onwards along this rugged coast and a sighting of a sole, brave surfer:
….arriving in short order at Lastres, this town set on the water’s edge had a really nice feel to it. Everywhere we have driven in Spain there are well maintained promenades sometimes stretching for kilometers. Although they may be an economic basket case, what we have seen of the highway system, cleanliness of towns and general infrastructure has been outstanding:
This town is certainly one to consider for a longer visit given its attractiveness, amenities > lots of nice shops/restos, waterside setting and proximity to the mountains as well as several other interesting towns/villages. Saw some more pilgrims heading to Santiago via the coastal route…they can always be identified by the clamshell attached to their packs:
Then we changed course heading inland to the Picos de Europa a National Park established in 1918. Our overnite was in a mini village called Corao arriving at the Hotel Rural Entremontes:
….checked into a pleasant room (albeit on the 3rd floor) briefly rested and onwards to the Covadonga Lakes and Sanctuary. The road did it’s normal winding thing, heading ever higher until we broke through the fog/cloud cover giving us splendid views of the Picos .
Headed out for a shortish hike to some overlooks of the lakes. A stunning area and one where grazing with small summer pasture homesteads, small restos and mountain huts all co-exist in a mountain setting….tons of excellent trails …this is hiking heaven!!
…then retraced our steps including the obligatory traffic snarl, cows who could care less about tourist schedules… In any event, we found our way to the Covodonga Sanctuary ….There was a battle on this site when the remnants of the Visigoths defeated the Moors, the victory was credited to the intercession of the Virgin Mary. In recognition of this miraculous intercession, King Alfonso I, the Catholic (739-757) commanded that a chapel…
and monastery be built on the site, in honor of Our Lady of Covadonga. The sanctuary came to be run by Augustinian canons, was destroyed in 1777 and rebuilt piecemeal, until replaced by a great Basilica that was consecrated in 1901. The basilica houses the current statue of Our Lady of Covadonga. Another great setting:
…ran into a Brit couple who were on a road trip but in a somewhat grander style….in a 1930 Bentley (with ’48 chassis) so the owner informed …..asked him how the drive up the mountain road to wit, he said, “SPLENDID” …..they are a funny people!
…. short visit, and then back to the our hotel. Not done yet….we managed through our growing knowledge of Spanish (we are up to about 16 words) to determine where there was a Sidereria (type of bar particular to this region > Asturia). Not in the village ….so on with our Friday nite going out clothes and drive to Cangas (a type of Banff like town but less commercial) about a 10 minute drive. Miss Charm got us totally lost!!!….search for parking …..Friday nite and everybody is out, good luck…found one pounced on it…literally going into the opposing lane of traffic to snag it ….and now the search begins for the Sidereria. Piece of cake …well sort of, walked in and it was only us and a local holding up the bar.
Had fun drinking some sideria….waiter has to pour it..holds bottle over one shoulder pouring into a large glass, all this over a large type of spittoon which sits on the floor, to catch the overflow…you only get about 2 inches …so there is refill after refill…..yes the food was also quite good > one of our dishes was a white bean stew with 3 types of sausages…..very nice:
On the way back we ran into tons of people packed into a giant tent and dozens of Vespa scooters and their worshippers drinking 1 Euro cervezas and scoffing some good-looking food…..no one paid us any attention but we passed on the beer as we still had to drive “home’. Well it was another great day!!